The menu brings global flavors countryside by presenting familiar staples with distinct attention to detail. Three share-worthy pizzas grace the menu, all with elastic stracciatella cheese and a host of unique toppings, such as pear, pecan pesto, arugula, and balsamic. Beef tartare takes an earthy turn atop toasted puffed farro and black trumpet mushrooms. The stack arrives partially deconstructed, aside a delicate egg yolk resting in a nest of anchovy powder, for diners to fuse with their forks, creating art on a plate.
For a main dish, the Upland cioppino deserves the restaurant’s name, harmonizing a traditional Italian stew with Korean flavors. Generous offerings of plump clams, red shrimp, mussels, and flaky striped bass absorb a warming, spicy broth made with gochujang, a Korean chili paste.
Upland does not just appear impeccable like a catalogue. For this newcomer, atmosphere, taste, and service combine for a carefully edited and impressive experience.