We easily take for granted what sits (almost) right under our noses. For example, I’ve spent much time this year lamenting about the delivery dead zone surrounding my apartment and harping on the hummus-laden streets of the Upper West Side. But last night, as I entertained my dad and his buddies before a psychedelic trip down memory lane at one of the last performances ever by The Allman Brothers Band at The Beacon Theatre (which was frikken awesome, btw), I blew their culinary minds. And now, I realize I’ve neglected to ever properly endorse here the best, most redeeming dining establishment to happen to the West 70s since I’ve lived on its perimeter: RedFarm.
Ed Schoenfeld’s and Joe Ng’s RedFarm pays homage to Chinese classics with a farm-to-table, New York spin. A menu of small plates, dim sum, noodles and grandiose mains makes it simple for diners to taste around. But therein lies the problem that once you begin, your stomach can’t keep up with your mouth. Each dish excites more than the last, leaving you wishing you sampled more dim sum, more crispy apps, more noodles – just more.
Admittedly, my husband and I have eaten almost the entire menu, which means I may be more qualified to write about this particular menu than those in any previous post. It also meant I was the most qualified to order for four very hungry dudes last night. I took a chance by starting with the Diced Tuna and Crispy Noodles, partially to test the waters with the group, and partially because it’s my favorite dish that I refuse to skip over. It was a hit. Meaty chunks of diced tuna toss harmoniously with unexpected bites of salt, sweet and crunch in the form of salmon roe, heirloom tomatoes, blueberries, jicama and crispy fried noodles, tossed in rum and a cumin vinaigrette. I knew we’d have some fan favorites with the fried appetizers, too, including Spicy Crispy Beef and of course, in a true moment of welcomed New York kitsch, the Katz’s Pastrami Egg Rolls. I find them to border along overindulgent, but I was working a group here, so it just made sense.
Admittedly, my husband and I have eaten almost the entire menu, which means I may be more qualified to write about this particular menu than those in any previous post. It also meant I was the most qualified to order for four very hungry dudes last night. I took a chance by starting with the Diced Tuna and Crispy Noodles, partially to test the waters with the group, and partially because it’s my favorite dish that I refuse to skip over. It was a hit. Meaty chunks of diced tuna toss harmoniously with unexpected bites of salt, sweet and crunch in the form of salmon roe, heirloom tomatoes, blueberries, jicama and crispy fried noodles, tossed in rum and a cumin vinaigrette. I knew we’d have some fan favorites with the fried appetizers, too, including Spicy Crispy Beef and of course, in a true moment of welcomed New York kitsch, the Katz’s Pastrami Egg Rolls. I find them to border along overindulgent, but I was working a group here, so it just made sense.
The category you truly cannot steer away from is dim sum. The best of its offerings are a subjective choice, because objectively, they’re all wonderful. “Pac Man” Shrimp Dumplings shine in presentation and taste, a sampling of multicolored shrimp “ghosts” aligned to be gobbled by Pac Man himself, a fried sweet potato wheel wedged upward in guacamole. Dad went full iPhone-snapping-food-porn-crazy for those. Crispy Duck & Crab Dumplings arrive claws out, to be gripped like little lamb chop bones for dunking in a smooth vegetable curry. We skipped the Pork & Crab Soup Dumplings last night, because I’ve taught people how to eat soup dumplings before, and it’s not always a simple no-spillage situation. They are also on my must-consume list.
Arguably, if you wanted to sample more small-plate wonders with a smaller party, it’s feasible to skip over the mains, but not because they are less noteworthy. Three Chili Chicken balances hot peppers with a sweet peanut sauce. Shrimp-Stuffed Chicken, a dinner special offered on occasion, is a strange anomaly that’s suckered me more than once, in which pounded shrimp is revealed underneath the skin of sliced crispy chicken.
But rice and noodle selections cannot be missed. Wide Rice Noodles with BBQ’d Duck Breast are successful, because there are not many places that would serve such elevated, well-prepared sliced duck for tossing with a street-classic fat noodle. Dungeness and Rock Crabmeat Long Life Noodles succeed for the same reason. Nueske’s Bacon & Egg Fried Rice reaped a few “hell yeahs” from the boys.
When it’s all said and done, RedFarm brought new life to the Upper West Side and excites diners on every visit, as it did for Dad and his crew last night. Shame on me for not applauding it sooner. But sometimes, when you share a place you enjoy with those you care about, you begin to love it even more.
Arguably, if you wanted to sample more small-plate wonders with a smaller party, it’s feasible to skip over the mains, but not because they are less noteworthy. Three Chili Chicken balances hot peppers with a sweet peanut sauce. Shrimp-Stuffed Chicken, a dinner special offered on occasion, is a strange anomaly that’s suckered me more than once, in which pounded shrimp is revealed underneath the skin of sliced crispy chicken.
But rice and noodle selections cannot be missed. Wide Rice Noodles with BBQ’d Duck Breast are successful, because there are not many places that would serve such elevated, well-prepared sliced duck for tossing with a street-classic fat noodle. Dungeness and Rock Crabmeat Long Life Noodles succeed for the same reason. Nueske’s Bacon & Egg Fried Rice reaped a few “hell yeahs” from the boys.
When it’s all said and done, RedFarm brought new life to the Upper West Side and excites diners on every visit, as it did for Dad and his crew last night. Shame on me for not applauding it sooner. But sometimes, when you share a place you enjoy with those you care about, you begin to love it even more.
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