When executed at this level, the concept works, as evidenced by the impossible task of scoring a reservation. Luckily, my husband and I had a free Saturday night with nothing but time, so when we arrived around 7 p.m. to a ninety-minute wait, we committed and hunkered down at a stand-up bar area built for this scenario. The cocktails, too, are built for this scenario. My favorite, the Anti Histamine, combines tequila, liquor strega (an Italian herbal liqueur), honey, lemon, and bee pollen, for a well-balanced but stiffer-than-you-think refreshment. The hostess sat us after about an hour. The dark space is modern but not a gimmick, allowing diners to retain enough of their senses to focus on the fare.
If Cosme exemplifies the New Mexican cuisine, I’ll happily forego quesadillas and fajitas forever.