Chefs Aaron Israel and Sawako Okochi characterize their food as “authentically inauthentic.” To the snooty-sophisticated diner, maybe so. Leaving aside the question of what the real Jewish and real Japanese grandmas are cooking in their kitchens, I found the menu approachable, hosting a manageable list of a dozen-plus dishes I, for the most part, understood and felt excited about.
We began our meal like a proper Shabbat dinner – by breaking bread. Fresh, braided challah with raisin butter, both elements light and sweet. Now, it takes chutzpah to serve challah, and even more to charge diners for it as a standalone menu item. But the kitchen knows what it’s doing, and this was no ordinary dinner roll.